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The 7th Annual Straggler's Thanksgiving

Idris Hsi, December 5, 2002

For the 7th year (we think), Joel, Avinash, and I hosted the Annual Straggler's Thanksgiving with the help of Gabriel Brostow. The premise behind the Straggler's Thanksgiving is to ensure that everyone we knew had some place to be for Thanksgiving. Years ago we discovered that there are a bunch of us who don't go home for Thanksgiving weekend because of logistics, distance, or lack of the tradition in our upbringing. Now ironically (or not), Joel's parents are from Germany and Austria, Avinash's are from India, Gabe's are from Poland, and mine are from China. I don't think any of us grew up with a strong Thanksgiving tradition. But in the grand tradition of American immigrants and their children, we adopted and established our own traditions. Our social group tends to have a number of potlucks and get-togethers through the year. Thanksgiving is the one day where the three of us have supplied the majority of the food - specifically the turkey and the traditional trimmings. There's usually something wacky that happens each year and we usually don't leave until late in the morning after many rounds of The Great Dalmuti.

First we had a round of solicitations to see who could make it. After discovering that we could have up to 24 people, we had to do some planning. First of all, we moved it to a larger place - and for the first time we would be at someone else's apartment (Thanks, Gabe!). Secondly, we had to buy enough turkey and settled on 2 13-lb turkeys as opposed to the Food Network calculator's suggestion of buying a 24-lb turkey. Then the Sunday before, Joel and I made a trip to the Dekalb Farmer's Market to buy the turkeys and the rest of the groceries. The weird purchase ended up being the stalk of Brussels sprouts. Now, I needed Brussels sprouts for a particular dish but not being normal (as Joel was nice enough to remind me for the rest of the week) I bought the stalk instead of paying a per pound fee. At about 2.5 feet in length, it made a nice conversation starter if not an attractive centerpiece after being stripped of the sprouts. Also, it turns out that the plant is not called a Brussel, at least according to my dictionary, which I find rather strange. The turkeys were stored in Joel's fridge to defrost.

Each year we rotate the turkey responsibilities. Last year, Joel cooked a Southern fried turkey just to see what the fuss was about and cooked a second turkey as backup. This year was my year. We briefly discussed buying a "turducken" - invented by some Georgian and basically a boneless turkey stuffed with a boneless duck stuffed with a boneless chicken - but decided that it was too silly of a food item. Cooking started the night before when Gabe and I started brining the defrosted turkeys. We also ferried over a lot of cooking gear and dishes from my apartment along with a wide assortment of games. Brining involves boiling then chilling a mixture of vegetable broth, salt, sugar, allspice, ginger, and other stuff. Then the turkeys, this mixture, and as much ice as we could manage went into a cooler borrowed from Zack and Candi to sit for approximately 10 hours. According to Alton Brown, the Good Eats guy on the Food Network, brining seasons the meat and helps to make it more resistant to drying out while cooking. I was more concerned with not giving 24 people salmonella. We discussed whether we had enough ice and thought briefly about leaving it outside where the ambient temperature had dropped to about 31 degrees. My argument against this was the "Wild Dogs" argument - if we left it outside, wild dogs would make off with both turkeys and I'd never hear the end of it. If we'd been thinking a little more clearly, we could have moved it to the trunk of a car. Last time I checked, wild dogs still hadn't figured out how to break into a car trunk. Anyhow, Gabe promised to check the next morning and get ice if necessary. It turned out that we had enough ice in the cooler and the wild dogs discussion was completely unnecessary. That night I baked the sweet potatoes, boiled the chestnuts, and then spent a long time learning how to peel chestnuts. The eventual dish failed terribly on the presentation metric.

Thanksgiving day arrived and I had a leisurely breakfast - up to the point I realized that I had a hell of a lot of work to do - including picking up Avinash from his house since he'd flown in the night before. I also brought my radio and my "Iron Chef" soundtrack that has become it's own kind of wacky tradition at the potlucks hosted at my apartment.

Iron Chef, in case you don't know about this, was a Japanese cooking show which might have gone off the air in Japan by now. It replays on the Food network from time to time. The premise of the show is some guest chef challenges one of Chairman Kaga's Iron Chefs - a super specialist in a style of cuisine. They then have 1 hour to prepare a 4 star meal based around a theme ingredient. The ingredients have been as mundane as potatoes or Shanghai cabbage and as exotic as king crab (live) and shark's fins. The charm or central attraction of the show is partly the cooking but mostly the very funny English dubbing that puts a rather off-kilter spin on the show. In the last 15 minutes is the tasting by the celebrity judges and then the final scoring. It's all very dramatic and you get the impression you're watching two samurai dueling each other with sauces and spatulas from the dialogue. When I was watching it regularly out of curiosity we did silly things like call ourselves Bronze Chefs (2 hour time limit to prepare a 1 star meal not based on any ingredient at all). Since Thanksgiving was not going to be at my apartment, I dug out the Backdraft soundtrack and some other music to mix a CD based on the show and that would be appropriate for accompanying frenzied cooking.

The day's first exciting snafu came when Joel, the other major cook, was called to work by a math error committed by the incompetent boobs of another part of his company and called to let us know that he wasn't sure if he could make it in time. We made a frantic trip to his apartment to get his cooking supplies. Fortunately, Avinash was there to take over Joel's dishes. We prepared two turkeys - one Cajun style stuffed with green peppers, celery, and onions and coated with oil mixed with Cajun spices and the other in the more traditional New England style - rosemary, sage, onions, apples, and a cinnamon stick and coated with oil mixed with nutmeg.

I know that at this point I can hear various readers grumbling something that evokes the "stuffing vs. dressing" debate. I adopted the "aromatic" approach which is to stuff the turkey with aromatic herbs and vegetables. Stuffing causes the turkey take longer to cook and has the increased risk of poisoning the guests. Maybe some other year, I'll do both but in the meantime, I'm quite happy with this approach. One strong argument that I would make for not stuffing the turkeys is that the aromatics really did add some distinct flavors to their respective turkeys. I suspect that the high starch content of stuffing benefits in flavor from roasting in the turkey but doesn't contribute in the same way to the turkey itself. Having said that I now expect to hear several emails from the stuffing fanatics.

By the time Joel was able to show up, we were well underway. The four of us made macaroni and cheese (note: next year we need to use more cheese - preferably the recipe that called for using 2 pounds of cheddar), mashed potatoes, blanched Brussels sprouts with chestnuts, apple and sausage cornbread dressing, cornbread for eating, green beans with bacon, cranberry sauce, brandy flavored sweet potatoes in orange cups, turkey gravy, 2 blueberry pies, and 2 pecan pies. Gabe cooked us lunch about halfway through, a very nice spicy shrimp and pasta dish, because we were hungry but also to help us "break the buffet". Finally after some minor injuries from touching the sides of a hot oven and some dicey knifework, the cooking was finished. In addition to all that, other people brought food - Heather brought a family recipe dressing, spaghetti squash and tomato casserole, and apple bread. Katrina brought pumpkin bread with cream cheese frosting. James and Dana brought some wines and a pecan pie. Jay brought cranberry jelly. Gabe also supplied ice cream to go with the pie. Then Alex brought his specialties from his Cuban background - fried plantains, fried yucca, and yucca in mojo sauce - all of which took him an amazing amount of scavenging from local grocery stores, a lot of time and were amazingly good. Later, Vernard showed up after the first round of eating with chitlins made by his mother. It's a Southern thing and an acquired taste but still fun to eat if you're not squeamish. All in all, it was an amazing amount of food. The day's 2nd amazing snafu gave Alex an opportunity to laugh his head off. Last year or the year before, there was an issue with forgetting the giblets and the paper bag that contained them. This year, Gabe watched as I did a full cavity search on the turkey and came up with nothing. As I began carving the turkey, Alex asked if I removed the bag with the giblets. Naturally, at that very moment, my knife hit something un-turkey-like and I realized that the bags are stored in the top cavity which turkeys have but ducks don't. I grew up eating ducks as the holiday bird and when you only cook a turkey once every 3 years, it's hard to remember these little details. At least they use paper bags.

The evening went more or less like this (interspersed with conversation, game playing, and wine/root beer drinking).

  1. Last minute cooking and panicking

  2. Setup of tables

  3. First round of eating,

  4. First round of washing dishes

  5. First round of dessert

  6. Second round of washing dishes

  7. Relaxing

  8. Second round of eating

  9. Third round of washing dishes

  10. Second round of dessert

  11. Hot chocolate

  12. Third round of eating

  13. The Great Dalmuti

  14. Fourth round of washing dishes

  15. Ejection of lingering guests

  16. Distribution of remaining leftovers

  17. Clean-up and staggering home

During the second round of dessert, Sean and I also made hot chocolate with as much chocolate, milk, cream, and half-and-half as we had. We used good Lindt bittersweet chocolate and used a French recipe. Good stuff.

Games have become a staple at our usual get-togethers ever since Joel and I started Atlanta Board and Card gamers and were fortunate enough to meet Frank Branham, our local games guru and uber-collector. In addition to a variety of newer German games (Blokus and Villa Paletti) and Liar's Dice, we played some party games. The surprising part of the evening was the 7 students from mainland China connected to Gabe's lab who enjoyed themselves thoroughly. We weren't sure how they would like the food or take to the games (one was Apples to Apples which requires some English as well as some grounding in various Americanisms) but they had a very good time with it. After a game that appeared to be a some variant of Mafia where Vernard led the murderers to victory using one of the most astonishing examples of reverse psychology that I've seen in a while. "Vernard must be a murderer." Vernard replied, "Yes, I am the murderer, you should vote me out." They didn't. The next game was Werewolf - cards are dealt to everyone and two people end up being Werewolves. There's a moderator who has everyone close their eyes. The werewolves select a victim to murder. Then daybreak happens and the villagers now pick someone to lynch, hoping they are eliminating a werewolf. When my friends and I play it, we're very random, often selecting people to eliminate on whim or for comedic value. The Chinese students played it with deadly earnest and had spirited debates to determine guilt or innocence based on behavior. I heard that they group took about 45 minutes to vote on who should die for one round. While interesting from a sociological perspective, there seemed to be something to the application of logic to mob rule. The funniest incident I saw involved one of the students who fought to get a particular person lynched. When that effort failed and some other poor soul was voted off the island instead, he made the equivalent of a dying declaration, "If I die tonight, then this person and that one are the werewolves." Sure enough, he ended up as werewolf kibble that night and it turned out that the werewolves really were those two people. It was very entertaining as a spectator sport.

The party finally broke up at about 3 am after a Revolution caused the Peons and the Dalmutis to change places (darn that Vernard!). Some of our guests had such a good time that we finally forcibly kicked them out of the apartment so we could survey the damage and clean up.  Those of us who cooked stayed. I finally got home at 4:30 am and got all the leftovers put away. The next day I spent the afternoon cleaning up after myself alternating between napping after eating turkey leftovers (stupid tryptophan!). Saturday I did some more cleaning and organization and made turkey stock with the leftover carcasses and bones. The only lingering bit of Thanksgiving business still remaining is a missing bowl with the Brussels sprouts and chestnuts. As near as we can tell, it's been Twilight-Zoned. All of us remember seeing it at the end of the night but no one knows where it went. Argh! It's one of those large noodle bowls in a Chinese motif that I use often. Fortunately it's only $7 but I hate losing things and I was looking forward to finishing up that dish. It turns out that fresh Brussels sprouts cooked correctly taste pretty darn good. Anyhow, if you happen to see a bowl full of Brussels sprouts and chestnuts scurrying along the highway or hiding in a cupboard, let me know.

I hope you had good Thanksgivings yourselves.

* As a footnote to the wandering bowl, it turns out that it never wandered off but was kidnapped by one of our guests who was taking home leftovers.  If I had described it properly as a white bowl with a red Chinese mosaic motif around the exterior, they would have known to return it to me sooner.  Go figure.